Chef and owner, Peter Stubbs, has quite a colourful resume, having played private chef to those who could afford him in Europe, the USA and Mexico. Whatever it was he gained from this experience, it seems to have served him well as Cinco is consistently bursting at the seams.
The menu structure is formula bistro – six entrees and six mains, fish, chicken, pork, duck, lamb and beef – but there are some real surprises, and demonstrations of flair and confidence in the construction of many of the dishes.
Some, like Scallops with Leek Gow Gee and Black-Bean Vinaigrette, borrow from an obvious source, and others like the Braised Pork Belly, Celeriac Puree and Prunes in Pedro Ximinez reek of pure innovation.
Either way it works, and the food arrives as it reads, executed well, and presented beautifully. Service is capable, fast and no-frills, but entirely suitable for a busy suburban bistro.
There is a small, but well-rounded wine list that is, with the exception of Champagne, confined to Australian labels.
Cinco is a busy dining room in a fairly confined space, and there are few soft surfaces, so be prepared to raise your voice to be heard above the cheerful din.
Cinco is open for lunch on Thursdays and Fridays from 12 to 3pm and for dinner Tuesday to Saturday from 6 to 10pm. It’s fully licenced or you can BYO wine. Main courses start from around $28 and deserts from $12. Bookings are recommended.
