Native to tropical America, bromeliads belong to a plant family containing over 3000 species, including pineapples and Spanish Moss (sometimes known as Grandfathers Beard). They are mostly easy to grow and are available in a wide range of sizes from miniatures through to huge plants. The small amount of effort you have to put into keeping these plants is wonderfully rewarded with vibrantly coloured flowers.
Because bromeliads generally only bloom once, it’s important to go for plants with leaves you find visually appealing. The reason most of them only bloom once is because the plants grow new leaves from the centre of the plant – the same place the flower stalk grows from. The stalk blocks the growth of new leaves, and so the plant puts its energy into growing new plants (called pups).
Terrestrial bromeliads absorb most of their nutrients and moisture through their roots, and grow well in loose soil with good drainage. Tank bromeliads rely more on the moisture and nutrients that gather in their “tank” and can be grown in the ground or attached to other plants or hard surfaces. “Air” bromeliads absorb nutrients and moisture from the surrounding air and grow attached to other plants or hard surfaces.
Here are a few tips for growing beautiful bromeliads
Planting
Bromeliads are the ultimate if you’re after ease of planting - many bromeliads don’t need to be ‘planted’ at all. You can pot them up or put them in the ground but remember that they need soil that is extremely well draining and doesn’t pack down too much as that will damage the roots. And don’t forget to make sure that the plant is well supported until it develops a good, strong root system.
If you’re putting your bromeliad in a pot, use orchid mix or a mix of bark chips and mulch. They don’t need or like rich soil and can be grown in coarse builders sand or small gravel as easily as in more traditional potting media.
You can attach most bromeliads to trees, fences or even a rock - this is because they take moisture and water directly from the air or from the centre “tank”, not by their roots.
They love a bright, filtered light position and many varieties prefer to be planted in groups as it raises the humidity (which they love).
Pruning
You can cut off the dead flowers but otherwise bromeliads don’t really need pruning. If the bunch is becoming too large, make it smaller by removing the new plants produced by the mother plant (the “pups”).
Pests and diseases
Bromeliads are relatively pest free but there are a few things to be aware of with the “tank” bromeliads. These plants benefit from having their tank flushed weekly – it helps stop the build up of mineral salts that can cause problems, cuts the chance of them becoming mosquito breeding grounds and reduces the risk of fungal rot.
Remove any chewing pests by hand. Bromeliads don’t respond well to insecticides as they can build up in the “tanks” and harm the plant.
If your bromeliad shows signs of scale just gently scrape it off the plant with your fingernail. For larger infestations or for mealy bug, you’ll need to buy a suitable cure (such as malathion) and spray or dip the plant. Oil based sprays and cures are not recommended.
There are pellets (called Nomoz) which you can add to the tank bromeliads to help deter mosquito breeding, or try a drop of organic detergent in each “tank”.
Feeding
You will find that the centre well or "tank" of the bromeliad captures falling leaves and insects as well as water, so most bromeliads are surprisingly self-sufficient. However, you can feed them in the warmer months with only an occasional spray of a well-diluted fertiliser – half strength or less, but if you want a nice flower display avoid using a high-nitrogen fertiliser.
Never add slow release fertiliser in the centre well of a bromeliad as it will burn the plant, but sprinkle pellets on the soil around planted bromeliads, making sure there’s no risk of either the roots or leaves coming into contact with them.
Watering
The most important thing to remember is that bromeliads thrive in high humidity. If the humidity is over 60%, spray a light mist of water over your plants every couple of days. If the humidity is below 60%, mist the plants daily. Planting bromeliads in bunches will help increase the humidity around the plants and keep them healthy.
When you water “tank” bromeliads, the water should be at room temperature and you should pour it into the centre of the plant to help remove any stagnant water. Allow the runoff to dampen the roots (or soil) but make sure the plant isn’t left in a puddle. They only need watering weekly.
Propagating
For best results, propagate in warmer, humid weather.
Wait until the parent bromeliad throws a pup (offshoot) and the pup has grown to at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
Cut the pup off as close to the mother plant as possible without damaging the mother – it’s best to use a sharp knife or clippers. Trying to break it off will damage both the parent plant and the pup.
Let the pup dry for a day before planting.
Some varieties can also be propagated from seed, many producing berries containing seeds that can been sown in pots or trays. Using only a premium quality potting or orchid mix, cover with plastic or inverted pots and keep in a humid environment. When seedlings are large enough, pot them up or plant in the garden.
If you want to get more involved with these unique plants, see the website of the Bromeliad Society of Queensland.
